How Our Taste Buds Evolved: Leftovers from Yesterday #1

Explore how the revolutionary 15th-century 'Columbian Exchange' transformed our palates, cuisines, and the course of history. From the tomato's 300-year journey to the potato's role as a savior.

Introduction: Our Palate and the Flow of History

Hello, dear followers of Koray's Internet Archive! Welcome to the first installment of our "Leftovers from Yesterday" series. In this series, we won't just be chasing flavors; we'll be exploring how foods have shaped the course of history and evolved over time. Get ready, because this is far more than a gastronomic journey; it's a discovery blended with multiple sources and years of accumulated knowledge, tracing both unwritten history and academic literature.

A close-up of ripe red tomatoes in a box
Fotoğraf: David Trinks / Unsplash

A little note: Menemen with or without onions? There's no single recipe for such dishes worldwide. Multiple ingredients can be added to or removed from menemen. Actually, this is one of the world's most pointless debates.

The Columbian Exchange: The Great Swap of Flavors

So, when did our taste buds change the most in human history? This brings us to a revolutionary concept called the "Columbian Exchange." This relatively new term, coined in the 1970s, refers to the biological intermingling of the Old World (Asia, Europe, Africa) and the New World, following Christopher Columbus's discovery of the Americas, or the "New World." Was it just food products? No! Diseases, plants, animals, and even people were all part of this massive exchange.

a painting of a boat with people on it
Fotoğraf: The Cleveland Museum of Art / Unsplash

The definition is very simple: After the discovery of the Americas, products from the New World (America) moved to the Old World, and those from the Old World to the New World. It wouldn't be an exaggeration to say that this great change laid the foundations for today's cuisines.

Foods Not Found in Europe: Surprising Facts

What's the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Italian cuisine today? Tomatoes, of course! From pizza sauces to pasta... But did you know, 500 years ago, there was no such thing as a tomato in Italy? And not just tomatoes! Peppers, cocoa, vanilla, potatoes, and corn too... These were all known as "New World foods" and were miracles that spread to Europe post-Columbus.

A pile of fresh, small, golden potatoes
Fotoğraf: Alicia Christin Gerald / Unsplash

However, this exchange also had a dark side: diseases. Epidemics like smallpox, carried from the Americas to Europe, caused 90% of the population in some New World regions to perish.

The Incredible Journey of the Tomato: From Poison to Plate

The story of the tomato is an epic in itself. As described in the book "10 Tomatoes That Changed the World," when the tomato first arrived in Europe in the 1400s, it was far from the smooth, round fruit we know today. Its misshapen and ugly appearance caused great astonishment.

Unfortunately, because the tomato belongs to the nightshade family, which includes poisonous plants, it was directly associated with poison. This perception, reinforced by its unsightly appearance, meant that the tomato was not consumed as a food for about 300 years, but only cultivated as an ornamental plant.

There's an interesting detail about the Ottoman Empire: when tomatoes first arrived, they were consumed while green. When they turned red, people thought the tomatoes were poisoned and stopped eating them. Why? Because the color red often signifies poison in nature (e.g., in some mushrooms).

One of those who hindered the spread of the tomato was Galen of Pergamon. Galen's medical authority, as Marcus Aurelius's physician, reinforced prejudice against such unknown plants. How interesting that a figure from our lands had such an impact on the tomato's global journey, isn't it?

Potato: The Underground Lifesaver

Another critical New World food: the potato. Like the tomato, it was initially scorned. The sprouts that emerged from germinating potatoes were associated with leprosy, and people developed a false perception like "if you eat potatoes, you'll get leprosy." (In reality, consuming sprouted potatoes is dangerous as they contain solanine.)

However, as potatoes spread across Europe, they became a lifesaver. People were fed; the population quadrupled. One of the potato's most unique features was that it grew underground. This meant invading soldiers couldn't easily confiscate them. While other fruits and vegetables were visible and could be harvested, digging up potatoes required significant effort. Thus, during periods of occupation, they became the most valuable food source for local populations.

One of the most tragic events that best illustrates the historical importance of the potato is the Irish Potato Famine. Millions died or were forced to emigrate during this famine. It is also known that Abdülmecid I sent two shiploads of potatoes to Ireland, despite the British's strict stance on logistical aid at the time.

A film recommendation: "The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society." A delightful period film that reflects the importance of potatoes at that time.

Why Did Our Taste Constantly Change?

When we say "our taste has changed," it doesn't automatically mean "it was bad before, now it's good" or vice versa. The matter didn't progress along such a straight line. It could never be said that our taste was completely "found" in any era; it was constantly undergoing change and development.

From the Middle Ages, especially in the 300-year period before the French Revolution, access to water sources was quite limited, and water was often problematic. For this reason, the use of water in cooking was extremely rare. Instead, especially among the aristocracy and at courts, very significant amounts of spices were consumed. One of the main reasons for this was that meat could not be properly stored and logistics were inadequate. Spices served as a tool to mask spoiled flavors.

There was also an interesting class dynamic: spices, being expensive and hard to come by, were initially consumed by nobles. However, as spice routes developed and access to spices became easier, partly due to the Ottoman Empire, common people also began to consume them. At this point, the wealthy, feeling that "we no longer have differentiating features," moved away from spices and turned to aromatic herbs and fresh greens. In other words, taste preferences were always a reflection of a class dynamic.

Next Episode: The Dark Side of Sugar

In the next installment of our "Leftovers from Yesterday" series, we will discuss an incredible, yet equally dark system triggered by the Columbian Exchange: sugar. How did sugar, consumed daily by everyone today, lead to the birth and expansion of a very serious system of slavery in history? We will seek the answer in our next article. Stay tuned!

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